LIVING WITH ACNE

After trying to write a review of food supplements I use for my skin and my Bravura Glycolic Acid Night Treatment review also still pending I decided that I need to look at the bigger picture. So this is my post about how I live with my mild/moderate acne and how I have gone off antibiotics, contraceptives and benzoyl peroxide by using the below products with my acne still at bay. This post will incorporate reviews of various anti-acne (the obvious and the not-so-obvious) products and some advice from personal experience. I hope you can take something away from this but remember that there are dermatologists and GPs out there so don’t suffer in silence if your acne bothers you. My complete acne solution includes 26 products plus some that didn’t make the cut. These have been tried and tested by me over long period of time and I don’t suggest you rush to buy every single one of them (because that would set you back £400+). Feel free to read this post on and off, maybe return when you need some inspiration and/or advice.

This post has 7 chapters:

  1. Cleansing
  2. Toning
  3. Moisturising
  4. Overnight treatments
  5. Masks & peels
  6. Food supplements
  7. Body acne

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CLEANSING

My cleansing routine is pretty simple and most days done in-shower. Below are 4 products I class as my cleansers. I have included Grounded Coffee Scrub even though it is a scrub not a cleanser but I believe exfoliation is cleansing anyway.

Cleansing
Grounded Coffee Scrub; Dermalogica Clear Start Foaming Wash; Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser; Bravura Dermaflannel

 

Grounded Body Scrub Coconut Scent Coffee Scrub (£15.00 in Boots) – I use this scrub in the shower on my face and body 2-3 times a week, I only recently discovered this and reviewed it here. I love this scrub because it is packed with vitamins and minerals. It contains brown sugar and himilayan rock salt to scrub away dry, dead or flakey skin and leaves skin moisturised and hydrated with vitamin E oil and cold pressed almond oil. It is rougher than most scrubs but the list of ingredients is so transparent that you shouldn’t worry about it harming your skin. This scrub is currently very popular, google it and see what the fuss is all about! This scrub is not the most effective acne treatment directly but as far as scrubs go it is the best one I have tried and it helps my acne by moisturising and nourishing my skin with the natural ingredients.

Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser (£34.00 on murad.co.uk) – currently on murad.co.uk all products are 3 for 2 so if you are feeling adventurous I really recommend this brand (unless, of course, you have heard of them already). I currently have this product in travel size but I have already ordered full size version. This exfoliating cleanser combines salicylic, glycolic and lactic acids and the trio provides clarity, brightness and improves cell-turnover by dissolving dead skin cell build up and revealing a radiant complexion.This cleanser is from Murad’s anti-ageing range but salicylic acid is one of the most effective acne treatments, two birds with one stone – why not? It is a gentle cleanser with jojoba beads that will polish, exfoliate and smooth skin while boosting hydration. I use this 2-3 days a week (on the days I don’t use the Grounded Coffee Scrub).

Dermalogica Clear Start Breakout Clearing Foaming Wash (£13.10 on dermalogica.co.uk) – I use my Bravura Dermaflannel (£11.99 on bravuralondn.com) to wash my face at night and simply lukewarm water in the mornings. This face wash again is salicylic acid based, it is very gentle and little goes a long way. I prefer this over other salicylic acid based brands because it doesn’t make my skin dry and it is affordable (compared to what acne treatments can cost). I use this on my face and body when I shower. It is virtually scent-free and is one of my main acne treatments. Bravura Dermaflanner comes with a long list of instructions and precautions (you can read them here), however I never rub my skin with this cloth and literally just tap it over my chest, back and face and it works really well. Be careful if you try it though as it can be a bit harsh on sensitive skin.

Over-exfoliating can do more harm than good and even though I alternate between my coffee scrub and Murad exfoliating cleanser I don’t recommend exfoliating daily. Grounded coffee scrub is very gentle and has all natural ingredients so I sometimes forget it’s an exfoliator but some days it’s best if I only use it on my body. Also, be careful with different brands that potentially have the same ingredients – you may think you are alternating between two different products but many anti-acne products have salicylic acid in them and you can end up stripping your skin from natural oils which will make your acne worse.

TONING

My pet hate – people who think toning is out-dated and harsh on your skin. Forgive me if you are one of those people. I am not here to preach but toning has a scientific explanation.

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Elemis Soothing Apricot Toner; Garnier Micellar Cleansing Water

 

Why do so many people think toning does more harm than good? Because many toners have alcohol in them (plus a long list of other horrible ingredients) and those toners make skin dry and irritated. There are, however, many toners on the market these days that are alcohol free and gentle on your skin. Toning is essential because the skin is naturally acidic with a pH balance around 5-6 and cleansing the skin will strip the natural oil that helps maintain this pH balance due to the alkaline nature of your soap/cleanser/face wash. This will cause your skin to produce an excessive amount of oil to replace what was lost. Toners help your skin maintain the proper pH by neutralising the pH levels after cleansing so your skin will remain healthy.

Elemis Soothing Apricot Toner (£22.50 on elemis.com) – this is my favuorite toner because it is spray on which means less unnecessary contact with skin. It is not cheap but this as well as Elemis Ginseng Toner are both money well spent. It smells like apricots and there is nothing harsh about this toner. I’d like to call it apricot water because it feels so good on my skin. This is the one and only toner I use and would never skip toning. You can find out more about active ingredients in this toner as well as some beauty therapist tips on Elemis website.

Garnier Micellar Cleansing Water (£3.33 in Boots) – ok, so this is not a toner but you sort of  use it like a toner and I didn’t know which chapter to include this product in. Micellar Water is fairly new on the UK beauty market (or maybe I am late to the party?) and I have only recently incorporated this into my skincare. Garnier Micellar Cleansing Water contains micelles which act like magnets, gently lifting away makeup and impurities from the skin, without the need to rub or rinse (which is a great solution for acne prone skin as you want to avoid touching it). I use this when I am feeling a bit lazy (nobody’s perfect). It takes my make up off in seconds (including mascara) and leaves my skin feeling clean and moisturised, this is my new wet wipe alternative because wet wipes are evil. I recommend this product for those of you who live busy lives and sometimes need a quick fix.

MOISTURISING 

This is the tricky part. Acne is often caused by oil overproduction so finding a moisturiser that is oil free yet good enough to soothe those dry patches caused by active acne treatments has always been my biggest challenge.

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Cetaphil Moisturising Cream; Manuka Doctor ApiClear Serum; La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo Acne Treatment; Clarins Truly-Matte Hydra Matte Lotion; Clarins Truly-Matte Pore Minimising Serum

Cetaphil Moisturising Cream (£6.73 in Boots) – this is suitable for eczema and psoriasis prone skin which is reassuring. Cetaphil is a brand aimed at problem skin associated with common skin conditions and following dermatological treatments. It is fragrance free and won’t block your pores, it is also non greasy and recommended to re-hydrate problem skin. It might be a boring drugstore moisturiser but it does what it says. My skin hates moisturisers but using salicylic acid (and benzoyl peroxide in the past) I need to moisturise. I use this at night unless I use a night treatment that night (continue reading for more info on my night treatments).

Manuka Doctor ApiClear Skin Treatment Serum (£19.99 on manukadoctor.co.uk) – This is a serum with 3 active ingredients – Purified Bee Venom, Manuka honey & royal jelly, all three are known for anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Serums can be used alone or before moisturisers as they get to the deeper layers of your skin. I use this most evenings, it is non-greasy and lightweight, works well for my acne.

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo Dual Action Acne Treatment (£11.62 in Boots) – this is not really a moisturiser nor a serum, it is something that can be used alongside other products. I use it most nights with my Cetaphil Cream. Some evenings I use one of my night treatments which is when I avoid using other products. This is a very effective acne treatment and as you can see I don’t use one brand (my face wash is from Dermalogica, my toner is from Elemis etc) because I have found what works best along the way. You can however buy La Roche-Posay, Dermalogica, Pro-activ, Clinique and many other anti-blemish ranges in full. I recommend using this as anti-blemish treatment not as moisturiser. Active ingredient is ProceradTM [a patented Ceramide].

Clarins Truly-Matte Hydra Matte Lotion and Truly-Matte Pore Minimizing Serum (£27.00 each on clarins.co.uk) – these are my morning duo. Truly-Matte are truly matte which is what I need before I apply my make up. Both products are designed for combination skin and are not neccessarily an anti-blemish product but with purifying Alpine Willow Herb and soothing Linden— they instantly calm irritations, tighten pores and control shine on the T-zone—ensuring a fresh matte complexion. Clarins website has detailed information on all ingredients which I recommend reading to improve your beauty product ingredient lingo. I don’t use any other moisturisers/serums in the morning.

OVERNIGHT TREATMENTS

Overnight treatments are a blessing because they work while you sleep. I only have two (very different ones) and I am a huge fan of both.

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Bravura 15% Glycolic Acid Night Treatment; bareMinerals Pure Transformation Night Treatment; MAC 129 Powder/Blush Brush

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Bravura 15% Glycolic Acid Night Treatment (£17.40 on bravuralondon.com) – my initial review on this product can be found here and I did promise you Part 2, but I think it is fair if I mention this product here as it plays big part in my acne treatment regimen. I have used it for over 3 weeks now and even though I initially used it every night I now only use it once every other night, sometimes even less often and it is more than enough as it is a powerful treatment. This product is Bravura London’s most requested product as it works for all but the most sensitive of skin types.The reason I love it is because it is exfoliating yet nourishing, it is recommended for evening use and is ideal for spotty skins that can become a little dry when using gels or oil free based lotions. For more details on how glycolic acid works and how it can help your acne please go to Bravura London website. It is extremely important you understand how your skin care products work and what each one of them does. I was a little scared to use this at first but it never once has irritated my skin or caused any redness / dryness. As I said I don’t use other moisturisers / serums on the evenings I use the night treatment. I am also extra careful with my exfoliators and scrubs / face washes when I am about to apply this. I can’t comment whether this treatment works alone but it helps my acne alongside other products, glycolic acid also stimulates your skin to produce more collagen which is the main structural protein of the skin and keeps it elastic and line free. When using traditional acne treatments your skin can appear older due to dryness so it is important you invest in anti-ageing range, ideally one that won’t cause blemishes. I highly recommend this product which like Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser is 2in1 – anti-blemish and anti-ageing.

bareMinerals Pure Transformation Night Treatment in Clear (£45.00 on bareminerals.co.uk) – this is bareMinerals’ ActiveSoil Complex in it’s most concentrated form. This powder formula dramatically reduces the appearance of pores, improves skin tone and texture, and increases luminosity. Powdering your face before bed ? – you may ask. Well, I too thought that’s a bit weird but after all BareMinerals claim you can go to sleep in any of their foundations. This powder is a bit shiny so I wouldn’t want to apply it during they day (even though you can) but it does work miracles while you sleep. This has to be used as very last step of your nighttime routine and can be used with any other product (I never use it with Bravura Glycolic Acid Overnight Treatment but any other moisturisers / lotions are fine). It will set you back £45 but I really recommend it. It reduces pores and increases cell turnover which helps acne scars heal faster. Available in Clear, Light, Medium and Tan to diffuse imperfections and won’t come off your pillow (don’t know how – magic!). It comes with a brush built in inside the pot but I am not a fan, it is a bit stiff and I end up wasting the powder so I use MAC 129 Powder/Blusher Brush (£28.00 on maccosmetics.co.uk) but any CLEAN brush will do.

MASKS & PEELS

Exfoliating removes dry/dead skin cells on the surface of the skin and is one of the most important aspects of your home skincare routine for face and body. If you don’t exfoliate count your other products wasted. It improves your skin texture and can even out the skin tone. Exfoliating doesn’t always mean scrubbing and even though I mentioned exfoliating in first chapter I want to explain what peels and masks can do for your skin.

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Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel; Bravura Salicylic Acid Chemical Peel, Bravura Applicator Brush; Glamglow Supermud Clearing Treatment

 

Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel (£32.00 on elemis.com) – this is a very gentle cream exfoliator, it is completely non-abrasive which is great for acne-prone skin. I use this once a week (can be used 2-3 times a week) by leaving it on for 15 minutes then washing off with lukewarm water. Enzyme peels are very powerful and ‘eat away’ dead skin cells. It smells amazing and is one of my favourite Elemis products. Again, visit Elemis website for some useful and interesting information on skincare.

Bravura Salicylic Acid 2% Chemical Peel (£9.59 on bravuralondon.com) – first of all, DO NOT use this with the enzyme peels and read the rest of the instructions that come with this product (or online) carefully! I use this once a week, sometimes once every other week because my acne is fairly mild and other products I use keep it at bay. Salicylic acid peel is one of the most effective acne treatments and Bravura version is great for sensitive skin because it is a mild peel and has a PH of 3. This particular peel can be used every other night. I recommend it for the obvious reasons (salicylic acid) and because it is affordable and very gentle compared to salon salicylic acid peels that are also available. I apply it with Bravura Chemical Peel Applicator Brush (£3.48 on bravuralondon.com) because it means you don’t have to use your fingers and waste the product and it gives a quick and even application of chemical exfoliator to the area you’re treating.

Glamglow Very Gorgeous Supermud Clearing Treatment (currently £34.99 on lookfantastic.com) – this has been my favourite mask for over a year and it’s worth every penny. Glamglow Super Mud is an innovative facial treatment mask that works to tighten skin texture and pores whilst fighting common skin problems such as blemishes, breakouts and even ingrown hair. I use this 1-2 times a week (leaving on for 10-15 minutes until it goes hard) with noticeable results after just one use. Again, formulated with Glycolic, Salicylic and Lactic Acids (which I hope we are now familiar with). This is the only mask I use and even though I occasionally try some others from my beauty boxes I haven’t found a replacement yet. Don’t forget – face masks are a great way to relax too!

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Me covered in Supermud

FOOD SUPPLEMENTS 

Food supplements are an integral part of acne treatment because acne often comes from the inside – poor diets, stress, lack of vitamins, you name it!

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Skin, hair & nails Formula; Pantothenic Acid (Vitamin B5); Cod Liver Oil; Evening Primrose Oil

 

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Holland & Barrett Skin, hair and nails Formula ingredients list

Holland & Barrett Skin Hair & Nails Formula Caplets (from £9.99 for 60 caplets) – I take these as multivitamins because the long list of ingredients covers everything from Vitamin A,C,D,E to B5, B6, B12, B1 and B2 to zinc, iron, calcium and so on (full list can be found here). I am not even sure of benefits of some ingredients but the ones that stand out for me are: Vitamin D, Vitamin B5, Zinc, Iron and Vitamin E. I recommend you read more on benefits of vitamins that interest you here, it is a great website with lots of useful information.

Holland & Barrett Timed Release Pantothenic Acid Caplets 500mg (from £9.99 for 100 caplets) – Pantothenic Acid is otherwise known as Vitamin B5 and rumour has it that taking Vitamin B5 in little crazy excessive amounts can cure acne. Please research side effects though if you plan on doing this. I take one a day + the dose from the skin, hair and nails multivitamins. The whole theory lays on the fact that vitamin B5 deficiency limits fat metabolism, and thus those excess fats are pushed through the skin as sebum.

Holland & Barrett Cod Liver Oil Capsules 1000mg (from £5.49 for 60 capsules) – cod liver oil is full of omega-3 fatty acids which can treat dry skin, it also contains vitamin A which is great for preventing acne (main ingredient in widely known acne drug Accutane is Isotretinoin which is a form of vitamin A). Fish oil is great for overall health.

Holland & Barrett Natural Evening Primrose Oil Capsules 500mg plus Vitamin B6 (from £3.99 for 30 capsules) – Women can take primrose oil to naturally treat PMS symptoms because of its essential fatty acid content. Evening primrose oil balances hormones and adult acne (especially in women) is often hormonal. I take this mainly for general health benefits and to balance my hormones after long use of contraceptive pill.

Food supplements are important for me but make sure you do your own research and find out what’s best for you. As we all know, there is never ‘one works for all’ solution.

BODY ACNE

Body acne can be frustrating because it can’t be covered by make up and many products are designed for your face so it is either really expensive to use them on your body or simply inconvenient (especially if it is your back).

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Grounded Coffee Body Scrub; Bravura Dermaflannel; Oxe Derm Body Acne Spray; Elle MacPherson Wet and Dry Face and Body Brush

I won’t repeat myself on Grounded Coffee Scrub and Bravura Dermaflannel as you can read about these in ‘Cleansing’ chapter.

Oxe Derm Body Acne Spray (£19.97 on Amazon) – this is salicylic acid spray that is great for body acne because it is easy to spray it on your back and chest. I use this after shower and let it dry. I don’t have a bad body acne but as I sweat quite a bit at the gym I get some blackheads and an occasional spot. This has been an affordable, easy-to-use solution for me.

Elle MacPherson Wet and Dry Face and Body Brush (£21.99 on Amazon) – this brush is great as it comes with 4 different heads and can be used on face as well as body, I am not a fan of abrasive face exfoliation but it works on my body, I actually go over the whole body as it is not just to treat blemishes and will get rid of dead skin cells everywhere. It is waterproof and comes with batteries.

To conclude, I don’t know if I will ever be 100% blemish free but after trying contraceptive pills (which can be a great solution for women who suffer with hormonal acne), antibiotics and prescription topical treatments I have decided to stay away from them if I can keep my acne at bay with drugstore / beauty products (and it looks like I can). Long use of antibiotics can damage internal organs and damage the balance of your healthy gut bacteria, topical acne treatments are often harsh on the skin and contraceptive pill comes with all sorts of side effects so even though my story doesn’t end here I would like to encourage you to try more natural solutions. But be patient, there is no overnight cure for acne, whether it is mild like mine or severe. Remember, there are also many cheaper alternatives on the market and research is the key. Acne can also be a sign of underlying health conditions such as PCOS therefore always consult your doctor.

Love,

Mari xxx